Joelle Thomson

Wine writer and award winning wine author


What I am drinking, reading and savouring each week

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An ode to rosé

Why pink drinks are on the rise

Why has pink wine soared in popularity over the past two decades? While we ponder the question, the popularity of rosés, rosados and pink wines keeps on growing, along with the variety of styles these wines are made in. While pale pink rosés appear to be all the rage, there is a lot more to the world of pink wine than these, with Spain's deep pink rosados (typically made from Garnacha and other, more deeply coloured red grapes) can also taste every bit as dry as their southern French counterparts, only with deeper fruit forward and savoury flavours. Even those pale coloured wines can have rich flavours and a tangy, vibrant edge, thanks to well managed acidity on the part of thoughtful winemakers. It seemed almost unthinkable that an NZ$55 Spanish rosado sporting a deep pink colour would sell at one of New Zealand's largest independent wine stores five years ago, especially when sitting right next to pale pink rosés at less than half the price, but it did sell - and well. Rosé has outsold white wine in France since 2008 and now accounts for 30% of the market there, compared to a mere 16% in 2002. 

The popularity of pink wine has soared over that time on a global scale and is no longer simple a Southern French, pale coloured, dry drink on scorchingly hot days around the Med'. Rosé is a global wine success and a New Zealand one too, whose rise has tracked alongside the growth of Pinot Noir in this country.

The following five rosés are my top pink wines tasted over the past two months from line ups I have tasted my way through for wine listings I work on, events that I host (the next one being Discover Te Muna on Saturday 16 August in Te Muna Valley Martinborough), stories in Drinksbiz magazine, on this website and judging wine at this year's New World Wine Awards.

When wines taste as crisp (like a fresh white wine), as tangy (as a great Albarino, Chenin Blanc or Riesling) and have a smoothness and depth of colour (in some cases) of a light red wine, why wouldn't rosé be on the rise? Along with all wines made today, the adherence to fresh, clean winemaking is the best it's ever been when it comes to rosé.

Five of the best rosés

Wines are ranked in alphabetical order

2023 Adeline Rosé RRP $24.99

Southern French rosé at its vibrant best with crisp tangy flavours framing a light bodied wine that's packed with the taste of red berries, dried cranberries and red apples. This is the ultimate after work wine. It tastes like sunshine in the glass and is excellent after work, late afternoon, year round. 

2024 Mason Hidden Vineyard Rose RRP $36

This is the second release of rosé from winemakers Paul and Amy Mason's Hidden Vineyard, tucked into a sunny enclave at the end of Te Muna Road in Martinborough, New Zealand. It's bone dry with 1.5grams per litre of residual sugar and is made entirely from Pinot Noir, which was fermented in stainless steel with lees ageing for two months. This brings a softening effect to the wine's fresh vibrant acidity, adding a little body and mouthfeel. Flavours of raspberries and dried red berries are lively and fresh. This is already sold out but the 2025 Mason Rosé will be released in November this year.

2024 Méditeo RRP $21.99

Light in body and colour but full of flavour with a fresh crisp structure and interesting blend of flavours from the five different grape varieties in the blend. Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, Cinsault and Syrah each bring their individualistic diverse aromas and flavours to this dry wine with its lively with red berry fruit flavours. An ideal rosé on a sunny spring day.  

2024 Whitehaven Marlborough Rosé RRP $25

Modelled after the gorgeous southern French rosé style in colour, dryness and taste but made entirely from Pinot Noir, which brings fresh strawberry flavours and lifted fruity aromas to this wine, giving it a distinctly different flavour profile to wines from around the Mediterranean. This is similarly refreshing and crisp with a fruitier taste. 

2024 Coalpit Central Otago Rosé RRP $38

Central Otago is the epicentre of Pinot Noir in New Zealand so it stands to reason that great dry rosés (also made from Pinot Noir) will also shine out of this southern region. Coalpit Rosé is modelled on Provence-style rosés with its pale pink hue, dry taste and soft, fragrant fruit aromas of strawberries, cherries and stone fruit. This wine represents the taste of summer in the glass and also delivers fresh vibrant flavours for everyday drinking, year round.

The artwork on the bottle of the Huia feather is by artist Chris Heaphy.